Penfolds 2005 Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz

This could be a template for warmer-climate shiraz in Australia. It's rich and powerful but all the elements are in balance and there is only 14.5% alcohol. A multi-regional blend, it is plush but beautifully structured, approachable but complex. $32.

Wolf Blass 2006 Grey Label Shiraz

You can't go wrong with a Wolf Blass shiraz and this McLaren Vale offering is a beauty. There's lashings of French and American oak in what is unreservedly a big, opulent wine, but there's also some peppery spice and fine tannins. $40.

Holm Oak 2006 Pinot Noir

This boutique winery in Tasmania's Tamar Valley is one to watch. This pinot, made by Rebecca Wilson, has some lovely varietal characters, raspberries and savoury notes, and is a wine of considerable elegance and finesse without being wimpy. $27.