Grüner veltliner is an Austrian white grape variety that has been pioneered by Lark Hill, a biodynamic winery at Bungendore, outside Canberra, and Adelaide Hills producers including Hahndorf Hill and K1 by Geoff Hardy. This is arguably the benchmark at the moment; with the fifth release having trademark herbal, melon and spice notes and and some exciting zingy acidity. From a stellar vintage, it is spectacularly drinkable with great vitality and intense mineral notes on the palate. A beautifully food-friendly wine, too, with the power to cope with just about any seafood or white meat dish. $45. www.larkhillwine.com.au.
Mac Forbes is one of the rising stars of the Yarra Valley and I tweeted that this wine was an "absolute triumph". A second look 24 hours later confirmed that viewpoint. Forbes makes several regional Yarra pinots that are more expensive and more sensual than this wine, but I doubt any would be more sessionable. It's a wine of impeccable balance, weighing in at just 13% alcohol. It has plump, fleshy fruit on a palate that also has great tannin structure and a certain refinement. Dark cherry notes are prominent along with spice and earthiness. There's plenty of length and lots of drinkability. I could certainly drink quite a lot of this. $35. www.macforbes.com
Larry Cherubino makes an impressive number of wines across several ranges; and all of them offer terrific quality at sensible prices. This is in the upper echelons of Cherubino's wines, one of two regional chardonnays from yet another great year in Western Australia. This is a Margaret River wine of balance and style, primarily fruit-driven but with with a percentage spending eight months in oak to add complexity and texture. It is a very pure, clean and dry chardonnay with just 13% alcohol. It's soft and silky on the palate and eminently drinkable with oak playing a support role but never intrusive. A very classy drop. $49. www.larrycherubino.com.
Ministry of
Clouds is the name of a new selection of wines developed by two of the wine
industry’s bright young talents, Julian Forwood, previously with Wirra Wirra,
and Bernice Ong, ex Woodstock. This is and a 2012 Tasmanian chardonnay were the standouts in the range for me; with this blend of McLaren Vale fruit offering excellent value for money. The couple loves the wines of the Iberian peninsula and this 52-48% blend is a homage to those styles with silkiness and plenty of length on the palate. Fragrant and luscious and matured in old oak with aid from winemaker Tim Geddes this is made in tiny quantities but is well worth seeking out as I suspect there will be more excellent wines coming from this duo. $28. www.ministryofclouds.com.au.
