Mike Aylward is crafting some impressive wines from Ocean Eight on the cool-climate Mornington Peninsula in Victoria and this one in particularly blew me away - an Australian take on village Chablis that is early picked, high in acid and low in alcohol at 12.2%. This is a very clean, linear and refreshing chardonnay with treatment in old oak barrels adding some textural complexity without impacting on the palate, which is long and refreshing. Pale, citrusy, minerally and bloody good drinking when lightly chilled. Great stuff. $48. www.oceaneight.com.au
Vermentino, fiano, arneis; the wine world is full of aromatic Italian white varieties that were virtually unknown a decade ago, but all three look to hold immense promise in Australia. This is the first arneis release from Fowles Wines in Victoria's Strathbogie Ranges; and it is an offering for those who like their whites with plenty of fruity punch. There's a tropical fruit salad nose with the tropical theme leading on to a palate where it is allied to a strong citrus backbone. This is long, lively and fresh and a very good introduction to a variety that originates in Piedmont and is known for producing floral and crisp wines; although the style can also be rich and textural. $22. www.fowleswines.com.
The
durif grape, also sometimes known as petite syrah, has a cult
following among aficionados of bigger-style reds, and thrives in warm
climes of Rutherglen in north-east Victoria. This is a more elegant
durif than many of its counterparts, the result of a cooler vintage.
It has plenty of intense fruit flavours but rather less weight than
is the case in warmer years. Medium-bodied and spicy, this is a soft
and approachable red that offers something just a little bit
different. Try pairing it with a venison goulash. $35. www.stantonandkilleenwines.com.au.
Sometimes you come across a wine and food matching so sublime that it takes your breath away. So it was with this delightful sauvignon blanc crafted by Geraldine McFaul paired with some Will Studd Brillat Savarin cheese. Sauvignon blanc thrives in the cool maritime climate of the Mornington Peninsula and this one hits all the right notes. It's had all the wine-making bells and whistles; whole bunch pressing and barrel ferment, adding texture and palate interest without impinging on the fruit purity. Lovely stuff. $35. www.willow-creek.com.au.
