The Horgan family, who founded Leeuwin Estate in 1974, are famous for not doing anything by halves. Their Art Series wines represent some of the finest of Margaret River and this is not only outstanding, it offers very decent value when compared with its rivals from Bordeaux. It is a classic Western Australian cabernet with dark currant and berry flavours front and centre of both nose and palate with some tobacco leaf notes and an intense core. There is 97% cabernet and 3% malbec. A wine of style and substance. History suggests this well cellar brilliantly. $70. www.leeuwinestate.com.au
Polperro is a Mornington Peninsula producer that takes its pinot gris just as seriously as its pinot noir and chardonnay. The vineyards are managed using organic and biodynamic principles and the fruit is handpicked and whole-bunch pressed. The wine is left at ambient temperatures and transferred to barrel with full solids, with minimal sulphur added. It undergoes wild yeast and malolactic fermentations and is left in barrel for six months. The end result is a wine of terrific textural and palate interest seen at its best when paired with food. Great work from winemaker Sam Coverdale. $45. www.polperrowines.com.au
If you can seek some of this out you will be well rewarded. It used to be that Margaret River and Coonawarra were the "go to" regions for medium-bodied cabernet, but several other regions, including cooler Canberra, have now jumped on the bandwagon. This one is ridiculously good value from an outstanding vintage, very easy to drink given its powerful dark berry and currant fruit flavours, savoury notes and terrific length. Oak from France, the US and Eastern Europe plays a solid but minimal support role. $32. www.shawwines.com.au.
