Winemaker Paul Bridgeman describes the 2017 Yarra Valley vintage as being "akin to winding the clock back 25-plus years, delivering an absolutely ideal unusually cool, calm and extended growing season like the classic conditions of yore". Anyone lucky enough to taste this stunning syrah would be likely to agree; it has serious cool-climate style. Poised, like a ballet dancer or supermodel, it also has an inner core of strength; and an elegance akin to one of the classic cars in owner Elias Jreissati's collection. It's a smooth customer with layered flavours that range from Christmas Cake to cassis to white pepper. Complex but undemanding, sensuous and silky, this is a beautifully integrated instant classic. I'd give it 96 points, or maybe 96.5. $80. www.levantinehill.com.au.
Seriously good cool-climate chardonnay from McLaren Vale winery Shottesbrooke made using Adelaide Hills fruit. With prices for top-notch chardonnays creeping about the $50 mark this offers excellent value for money. It is elegant and stylish with bright citrus fruit flavours and crisp minerality. It's a lovely drink offering immediate pleasure that would pair brilliantly with roast pork, crackling and all the trimmings. $33. www.shottesbrooke.com.au.
Castle Rock Estate winemaker Rob Diletti is something of a riesling specialist. This is one of three rieslings in the current range and is absolutely outstanding both in terms of quality and value-for-money. The Great Southern in Western Australia is a region that can compete with any in Australia in regard to riesling quality and potential longevity. Pale, but intense, this still quite tightly wound in its youth with lime and grapefruit juice notes to the fore. It has terrific structure and fresh zingy acid on the finish and is lip-smackingly good right now. Pair it with pan-fried whiting fillets.
