Another winner from talented couple Xavier Bizot and Lucy Croser; a beautifully balanced cool-climate pinot from the Summertown vineyard - one of the oldest in the region - in the Piccadilly Valley of the Adelaide Hills. The quality fruit has soaked up the 40% new French oak and the wine presents with pure pinosity. No surprise as the Terre a Terre team feels the climate here is very similar to that of Burgundy. So an Australian pinot with a definite French accent made in tiny quantities. I liked this a lot; primarily because it is bloody delicious, even in its youth. $40. www.terreaterre.com.au.
Kevin John, arguably Australia's most consistent fine chardonnay, is named in tribute to winemaker Vanya Cullen's late father, the founder of the Margaret River winery. Made from chardonnay vines planted between 1976-1988, it is - once again - a triumph. It ticks all the sustainability boxes; organic, biodynamic, carbon neutral etc, but it is the purity of the fruit that is the most striking element of this new release. There's 50% new oak, 100% natural malo and the wine is unfiltered. There's a panoply of pleasure here; a symphony of style. The oak barely registers. Think length, poise. minerally intensity and immense drinking pleasure. 97/100 for me. $127. www.cullenwines.com.au.
Matt Burton is one of the Hunter Valley's winemaking wizards when it comes to semillon, the white grape variety for which the region is best known. Burton makes semillons in a range of styles, from "wild" to off-dry. While many semillons are crafted to age gracefully this is one for enjoying right now, while is still boasts the cocky bright fruitiness of a cheeky nightclub comedian. It is made from grapes grown at the Tinkler family's School Block Vineyard - and no one is more obsessive about quality viticulture than the Tinklers. Expect intense crisp citus acidity and lots of length. Pair this with fresh oysters, or a seafood basket. $30. www.gundogestate.com.au.
