The Stein family is fast approaching its half century of making outstanding wines across a range of styles at Mudgee in the Central West of New South Wales. Third-generation winemaker Jacob Stein is now at the helm and quality continues to soar. The 2020 vintage was hugely difficult given the dreadful drought and bush fires of 2019 and the Covid-19 pandemic. This was handpicked from a vineyard unaffected by smoke taint and the end result is a fresh and lively young wine with a lovely balance. $35. www.robertstein.com.au/