Goaty Hill 2009 Pinot Noir

I'm a huge fan of Tasmanian pinots noir - and the first 09s from the Tamar Valley, which are just starting to creep into the marketplace, seem to tick all the right boxes. For a start, this is genuinely varietal when so many of its mainland counterparts are generic dry reds. That said, it's quite a big wine, richly textured with dark red berry flavours alongside Asian spices, soft tannins, French oak in balance and delightful savoury characters. It's young and assertive and very appealing. $34.