Robin Day was once chief winemaker for Orlando. Today he's downsized to a small vineyard at Mount Crawford, on the cool fringe of the Barossa, making "seriously good cool-climate wines" in boutique quantities. Day is experimenting with varieties like lagrein, saperavi and garganega, a white Italian grape that is used in the classic Italian wines from Soave. This is a distinctively dry white with plenty of palate intensity on the melon/white pear/straw side of the flavour spectrum. It's downright delicious. Don't expect any help from the back label, however. Day writes: "Years of writing descriptions for back labels have left me convinced that this energy is more gainfully employed in growing grapes and making wine." $20.
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