Rolf Binder 2012 Barossa Valley Shiraz

There are a number of Barossa Valley shirazes that are hulking monsters; all power, no finesse. But in a world of Wladimir Klitschko-style heavyweights this is more Muhammad Ali. Made from slow-ripening fruit in a very good year, the back label describes this as being "luscious" and "abundant". That's true, you would not mistake it for anything other than Barossa, but there is a certain style to its swagger. Made from fruit from five different vineyards, it also contains some grenache and mataro, adding some earthiness to the sweet, full-bodied shiraz. This is juicy with well considered use of French and American oak and has an immediate drinkability. $20. www.rolfbinder.com.