At last a pinot grigio that is unashamedly grigio in the northern Italian style; crisp, lively and refreshing as a mountain stream. In a world where there are so many grigios masquerading as gris - and vice versa - it is refreshing to find one true to the original prescription, not muddied and homogenised by crazed lees stirring. This Adelaide Hills offering is clean, elegant and lovely with grapefruit and lemon sorbet notes, length and acidity. It is a wine for chilling, a wine for savouring and enjoying with friends. Downright delicious but don't ask; I have no idea who Charlotte is. $24. www.foxgordon.com.au
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