Most
of the New Zealand pinot noirs that we see in Australia tend to come
from Central Otago, where the style is generally quite muscular. This Marlborough wine is at the other end of the spectrum; more delicate and elegant, but
still with plenty of black cherry flavour and smoky exoticism. It is
fragrant and unmistakeably pinot, with some bright fruit, savoury
hints and lovely structure. It's made by Kevin Judd, the
ultra-talented winemaker who helped propel Cloudy Bay to worldwide
recognition. $48. www.greywacke.com
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