One of the finest chardonnays I have tasted this year - and very reasonably priced given several excellent vintages in a row. Everything here is beautifully balanced, perfectly poised. Premium Margaret River fruit has been given whole-bunch treatment, wild ferment and lees stirring in quality French oak by consistent winemaker Glenn Goodall, but no malo, so it maintains shiny acid along with stone fruit allied to lively citrus notes. It is an impressively structured wine, elegant and fine with just the merest nutty hints. I'm happy to score this 95/100. $37. www.xanaduwines.com.
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