Thanks to innovative winemakers like third-generation Ray Costanzo there has been a dramatic increase in the quality of wines from Queensland's Granite Belt region, which is cold in winter, but warm in summer. This take on the Sicilian grape variety Nero d'Avola is just one of a number of impressive Mediterranean-style reds (the tempanillo and mourvedre are also stars) hat shine in the current range. The packing is smart, the wine even more so; indigenously fermented with bright red fruit notes, texture from partial whole-bunch treatment and soft tannins on the savoury palate. It's vegan-friendly too. New-wave Queensland wine excellence. Drink now, or cellar for a few years. 94 points. $30. www.goldengroveestate.com.au/
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