Picpoul (or Piquepoul) de Pinet is a star grape variety in the deep south of France, producing oyster-friendly white wines in the style of Muscadet. This is the upmarket version from Domaine Felines Jourdan, based in the village of Meze on the edge of the Thau Lagoon in the Languedoc. It is perfumed, fresh and vibrant and pairs well with just about any seafood dish. It is unoaked (lees stirring adds palate interest) with tangy lemon zest notes, the merest hint of sea spray and delightful crisp acid on the finish. Well worth sampling. Imported by Red & White, who distribute it nationally. $35 http://www.felines-jourdan.com/
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