If you enjoy your cabernet on the leaner, cool-climate elegance side of the red wine spectrum then this nifty tribute to Bordeaux will be right up your alley. There is nothing wine reviewers like less than being nudged about why a wine has not been reviewed, but this little gem truly had slipped through the cracks. This was released to mark 20 years of Upper Yarra Valley winery Payne's Rise, and is notable for its style and structure, although ideally it should be cellared for a few more years. Think restrained dark berry, slight herbal and minty characters. A lovely drink now or later. $55. www.paynesrise.com.au/
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