It does not pay to be colourist when it comes to pinot noir. This is a pale but flavoursome wine crafted from fruit grown on five estate blocks at Red Hill on the Mornington Peninsula, the oldest of which were plated 35 years ago. The fruit was fermented in a combination of large-format wooden foudres and stainless-steel tanks and the end result weighs in at just 13% ABV. It is an aromatic and pretty wine with red fruits to the fore, but has plenty of depth and would pair brilliantly with roast duck and cherry sauce. A delightful young wine that will also cellar well. $40. www.portphillipestate.com.au/
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