Grosset 2020 Springvale Riesling

 

The Grosset Polish Hill Riesling is, in my opinion, consistently the greatest aromatic white wine in the country - but it can take a few months to reveal all of its charms. While you are waiting, its younger brother, the Springvale, is another estate-grown riesling that opens up earlier. Planted on red loam over limestone and slate, the grapes produce a deliciously citrusy wine with grapefruit and lime flavours to the fore. Yields were limited in 2020 but this remains bright, fresh and concentrated with immediate appeal. Organic, vegan friendly and dangerously drinkable. $46. www.grosset.com.au/

Pooley 2019 Butcher's Hill Pinot Noir

 

In these days of instant gratification we are so often looking for the "new and exciting" that we pass on the tried and true. The Pooley family has been making superb wines for over 35 years now - and the quality from the Coal River Valley producer has never been better. This is a thrilling single vineyard pinot noir with classic cool-climate vibrancy and poise. French oak adds complexity to the brambly red fruit, Asian spice and earthy notes. Seriously good booze that would impress even the most one-eyed Burghound. $65. www.pooleywines.com.au     

Hoddles Creek 2020 Pinot Blanc

The team at Hoddles Creek in the Yarra Valley seem to be incapable of making a bad wine. Whether you call this pinot bianco, pinot blanc or weissburgunder, it is lip-smackingly delicious. Pinot blanc is an everyday drinking wine in Alsace; a gentle soul usually low in acid. Here it is picked early, left on lees for six months then lightly filtered. There are no additions apart from sulphur. If you enjoy gruner-veltliner or pinot gris than give this stylish and sassy youngster a crack. You won't be disappointed. $22. www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au.

Golden Grove Estate 2019 Nero d'Avola

Thanks to innovative winemakers like third-generation Ray Costanzo there has been a dramatic increase in the quality of wines from Queensland's Granite Belt region, which is cold in winter, but warm in summer. This take on the Sicilian grape variety Nero d'Avola is just one of a number of impressive Mediterranean-style reds (the tempanillo and mourvedre are also stars) hat shine in the current range. The packing is smart, the wine even more so; indigenously fermented with bright red fruit notes, texture from partial whole-bunch treatment and soft tannins on the savoury palate. It's vegan-friendly too. New-wave Queensland wine excellence. Drink now, or cellar for a few years. 94 points. $30. www.goldengroveestate.com.au/