Vanya Cullen is an extraordinarily talented winemaker and her top-of-the-range red is always eagerly awaited. This is biodynamic and beautiful; elegant and complex but not at all green and stalky. It’s a million miles away from most Australian reds in style with just 12.5% alcohol, but I like it a lot. If I’d been told it was from a left bank Bordeaux producer from a goodish year I wouldn’t have been at all surprised. If you enjoy big Barossa reds this cabernet merlot won’t thrill you, but if you favour reds that are stylish, medium-bodied and intriguing then you’ll be captivated. And it will almost certainly cellar well for a decade or two. Treat yourself. $105.
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