Ducks In A Row 2009 Erect Habit Mataro

Glenn James-Pritchard spent 15 years as a winemaker with Southcorp/Foster's/Treasury Wine Estates before leaving to focus on his own wine label, Ducks in a Row, which allows him to specialise in lesser-known varieties like fiano, vermentino and this muscular and intense mataro (also known as mourvedre). Made from McLaren Vale fruit from 60-year-old vines, this is quite an imposing wine; uncompromisingly dark and inky with rich black/blue berry and currant fruit flavours and a tannin structure that suggests it will cellar for a minimum of decade, perhaps much longer. Love the colourful Mirka Mora label, too. www.ducksinarow.com.au. $60.