1er Yarra Valley 2010 Chardonnay

If Franco d'Anna were a baseball player he'd be described as "seeing each pitch like melon". He's hitting the ball out of the park with the quality of his wines across all three of his ranges; the regional Wickhams Road series, the excellent Hoddles Creek range and this, his premium label. There were an equally impressive 2010 Pinot Noir and 2010 Pinot Blanc released alongside this wine, but this just oozes class, with every element in tune - like a world-class orchestra. It is a flighty filly right now, but offers just the right combination of citrus and stonefruit notes, with terrific texture and great zingy acidity. If this were a Burgundy, we'd be prepared to pay a fortune for it; so that makes the price tag for this Yarra Valley gem an absolute bargain. $40. www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au.