Jamsheed 2011 Pepe Le Pinot

I'm loving the unruly, bad boy Harem series wines from the talented Gary Mills at Jamsheed, who has access to some excellent Yarra Valley fruit. I was taken by the phenolic but fab 11 Le Blanc Plonk (a gewurztraminer/riesling blend) and the outspoken 11 Madame Chard but this was the naughtiest in the line-up, a tattooed punk of a wine with nose ring but a heart of gold. A single site wine from the Coombe Farm vineyard, it contains a 45% whole-bunch component, was fermented with indigenous yeasts, given extended maceration, matured in older French oak and  bottled unfined and unfiltered. The end result is a funky, fun wine with tons of personality. $21.