Kooyong 2011 Clonale Chardonnay

Sandro Mosele makes some of Australia's finest single-vineyard chardonnays under the Kooyong Faultline and Farrago labels. This is the baby brother of those wines, released a year earlier and half the price. It's still a terrific Mornington Peninsula chardonnay, as you'd demand and expect from Kooyong, and offers excellent value. It's a Kate Moss-style wine that has great purity and focus with lean citrus fruit and flinty minerality. It's thoroughly modern, certainly not for those who enjoy their chardonnays big and buttery, but very much in line with the zeitgeist in its restraint and food friendliness. $31. www.kooyong.com.