The Backbencher 2011 Merlot

You won't find too many merlots reviewed in my wine columns, or on my blogs. I'm unashamedly of the opinion that most Australian merlots are dull, monochromatic beasts, soft and easy to drink without any hint of personality or interest. There are, fortunately, some exceptions; the wines of Irvine Wines in the Eden Valley and this delightful little number from Capital Wines outside Canberra. A lot of work has been done of the southern end of the Kyeema vineyard from which this is sourced and the fruit quality is blossoming. There's plenty of interest on the palate here, plummy fruit notes and hints of spice, along with the softness you'd expect from the variety. It's quite simply very drinkable. Pair this with a pastrami sandwich for a taste treat. $25. www.capitalwines.com.au.