Tim Kirk has largely built his reputation on shiraz in various guises, and particularly his shiraz-viognier blend, a cult wine that was first a trendsetter and is now a benchmark. The awesome 2014 now fetches well over $100 a bottle. But there is more to the Clonakilla range than just stellar shirazes. Kirk and fellow winemaker Bryan Martin last year released an outstanding pinot noir, and also do good things with viognier as a stand-alone varietal. But for me the star win of the new Clonakilla releases is a riesling - and 2015 was a cracking riesling year in the Canberra region with Helm and Lark Hill, among others, also producing very fine wines. This is the 40th Clonakilla riesling, and also a candidate for the best. Kirk describes it as "a wondrous year" and this is beautifully brisk and flavoursome. He suggests cellaring; I disagree. This is just too appealing in its youth not to enjoy over summer. $30. www.clonakilla.com.au.
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