Brokenwood 2023 Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz

 

There are more powerful benchmark shirazes than this; and there are also more elegant examples. You will, however, struggle to find many that are more composed, or complete. A supermodel with a cheeky grin, this has been a Hunter Valley classic for decades, and this new release is an outstanding vintage from Stuart Hordern and his talented team. The heavy clay soil of the Graveyard vineyard in Pokolbin has produced concentrated fruit flavours with hints of rusticity; there is a brambly flow of dark fruit while 100% French oak (15% new) adds to the mouthfeel. If you have a special occasion to celebrate, then this will step up to the plate and hit a home run. 97/100. $500. www.brokenwood.com.au    

Hesketh 2024 Small Batch Pinot Blanc

 
We don't grow, or drink, a lot of pinot blanc in Australia, which is a pity, as it is a good choice for our outdoor lifestyle. There is a lot of it grown in Alsace, Germany and Hungary and it appears well suited to the cooler Adelaide Hills. This displays a nifty balance between fresh fruit vibrancy and textural palate interest, with some of the fruit fermented in stainless steel and a portion in older oak on yeast lees. There are apple and pear orchard flavours here with brisk acid,  but also some richer palate structure. It is hard to imagine any white wine lover not enjoying this given its versatility. An excellent wine for the price. Match with fish or poultry dishes, or maybe some Thai fishcakes. $28. https://heskethwinecompany.com.au/

Elderton 2023 Ashmead Cabernet Sauvignon

Power and poise come together in this flagship Barossa cabernet from family-owned Elderton. It's a substantial wine, but it is also elegant, not always an easy trick to pull off. The tiny Ashmead block, planted in the 1940s, has consistently produced small parcels of excellent quality fruit and is named after the family. Hence the Ashmead. The historic property was purchased by the late Neil Ashmead and his wife Lorraine, who made their first wine under the Elderton label in 1982. Today their two sons run the business and produce excellent wines at a range of price points. This is dark with chocolate and spice notes and a luscious long finish. Bring on a roast lamb and all the trimmings. $125. To be released on September 1, so worth getting on the waiting list. https://eldertonwines.com.au/

Angullong 2024 Fossil Hill Pinot Noir

 

The Crossing family has been making wines for almost 30 years under their Angullong label, but this is the first time they have released a pinot noir from their vineyards outside of Orange, in the Central West of New South Wales. Not only is is a very good wine - it also offers exceptional value. You don't find many quality pinots for $30 or under. It's an aromatic number with florals and red fruit aromas to fore. They lead on to a juicy red-fruited palate with bright acid and hints of spice and herbs. You won't find many better reds at this price point. $30. www.angulllong.com.au.