Sunday, April 29, 2012
Family-owned Langhorne Creek winery Bremerton produces some excellent value-for-money wines but there is a serious uplift in quality in this limited-release red from an outstanding vintage. There's plenty of rich fruit flavours here to please those who like their wines to have some muscularity, but also some elegant structure and impressively integrated oak. The complexity doesn't get in the way of the drinkability, however, and while his flexible, layered and concentrated wine is drinking very well as a new release you'd bet plenty that will look even better after a few years in the cellar. $50. www.bremerton.com.au.
Monday, April 23, 2012
This delightful individual vineyard wine from the Clare Valley ticks all the riesling boxes. It's appealingly aromatic with citrus and spring blossom notes leading to a lean palate that has plenty of classic lime and lemon zest flavours. There is some minerality from the vineyard and a zingy and refreshing acid backbone. With a moderate 12% alcohol, the wine finishes crisp and bone dry. Very clean, very elegant and food friendly, it is still a little coltish but will develop beautifully, as was evidenced by a recent tasting of the stunning 2006. The best news of all, however, is the recommended retail price. Every home should have a few of these on hand. $18. www.kirrihilwines.com.au.
Sunday, April 15, 2012
I'm loving the unruly, bad boy Harem series wines from the talented Gary Mills at Jamsheed, who has access to some excellent Yarra Valley fruit. I was taken by the phenolic but fab 11 Le Blanc Plonk (a gewurztraminer/riesling blend) and the outspoken 11 Madame Chard but this was the naughtiest in the line-up, a tattooed punk of a wine with nose ring but a heart of gold. A single site wine from the Coombe Farm vineyard, it contains a 45% whole-bunch component, was fermented with indigenous yeasts, given extended maceration, matured in older French oak and bottled unfined and unfiltered. The end result is a funky, fun wine with tons of personality. $21.