This has to be one of the most impressive chardonnay releases of the year. Vanya Cullen's biodynamic vineyards in Margaret River have produced a wonderfully balanced wine from a very good year. The grapes were hand harvested, sorted and whole-bunch pressed and the fruit spent 10 months in new and 2nd year French oak. The end result: a wine of elegance and intensity with citrus characters to the fore. Stunningly good and well worth $70.