Let's get this straight from the start. Here we have a very good Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon from a family owned winery that is a current release at four years of age. It is concentrated, but with classic regional elegance, and weighs in with just 13.5% alcohol; a lean, fighting machine. It's dark, still a little moody, with classic dark berry and chocolate characters, balanced, not intrusive, oak, dry and with plenty of length and structure. It will almost certainly cellar well. And here's the silly bit (the good bit, actually): this wine is available for $15.95 at cellar door on online and only a couple of bucks more retail. $18. www.koonara.com.light to see how dense it is if you don't believe me.