Voyager Estate 2009 Chardonnay

A very adult wine this; fully mature on release and beautifully structured in a willowy, elegant way. The alcohol level is just 12.8% but there is no shortage of flavour with a lovely balance between citrus and stone fruit notes on the palate. There is a steely acid core here and complexity from 100% barrel fermentation and 10 months in 33% new French oak. At no point does the oak intrude, however. It is simply a counterpoint to the fine fruit, adding texture and interest. The epitomy of winemaking cool. Very impressive. $45. www.voyagerestate.com.au.