There are some wine producers who seem to manage to hit the bullseye every time; no matter how tough the vintage. Franco d'Anna from Hoddles Creek in the Yarra Valley is one such vigneron, as is evidenced by this stunning and decidedly Chablis-like cool-climate chardonnay from the winery's flagship range. Weighing in at just 13.2% alcohol, this is a white wine of both concentration and finesse with immense immediate appeal. Made using minimal intervention (its spends more time in tank than in oak), the fruit shows taut, flinty nuances alongside tangy citrus notes, green apple with just a hint of mealiness and superb acid. This has so much length and purity and is beautifully composed and light on its toes - like a world-class fencer. $40. www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au.