There is a lot of pleasure to be had from this new-release pinot noir from Crittenden Estate on the Mornington Peninsula - and there's a new-look label too. This is no simple fruit bomb, or earthy mushroom compost remnant, but rather a beautifully balanced pinot with rather more textural interest than many of his its kin. Made with "minimal intervention" it was wild yeast fermented and bottled without fining or filtration. It has some brambly fruit notes, good acid structure and immediate appeal, although I suspect it will cellar well for several years. The 2012 Chardonnay and 2013 Fumé Blanc under the same label are also impressive. $34. www.crittendenwines.com.au.