Pinot noir is a most capricious grape, recalcitrant in the vineyard and sometime truculent in the winery. That is why the best examples, like this excellent new release, are so prized. There can be plenty of disappointments for pinotphiles, but this is one of the best releases from Yering Station in the Yarra Valley; aromatic and silky and bursting with bright fruit, allied to classy French oak. This is downright delicious right now and will almost certainly age gracefully. $40.