Over the past couple of years, the wines from Oakdene on the Bellarine Peninsula outside Geelong have been very much on my radar for their consistency of quality. This pinot gris, 100% barrel fermented and then matured for eight months in mainly older French barriques, is a case in point. It is offers a lot of pleasure for not a lot of money, is a very good take on the gris style and is extremely food friendly. It is a single vineyard wine with plenty of palate interest without obscuring the stone fruit/tropical characters. Elegant, lively and dry but essentially unchallenging, this would be a lovely drink on the back porch, served lightly chilled with hors d'oeuvres. $28. www.oakdene.com.au.