Tahbilk are the undisputed heavyweight champions of marsanne production in Australia, producing cellar-worthy examples vintage after vintage. What I liked most about this wine, however, was not how well it will age, but how brilliantly floral and appealing it is in its youth. Marsanne is grape from the Northern Rhone in France that is often blended, but here it shines as a stand-alone varietal. The grape was first planted in Victoria in the 1860s and Tahbilk has vines which date back to 1927 and are some of the oldest in the world. This is vibrant, citrusy, herbal and minerally and so drinkable right now that I would defy convention and drink it all this summer. $19. www.tahbilk.com.au.