The sample bottle, from which I was just pouring occasional sips, is mysteriously empty. "How the hell did that happen?" I ask myself. Only one answer; it was so darn delicious that I drank the entire bottle without noticing. I don't advise anyone to follow my lead, but I can assure you this rarely happens at Chez Dobbin. A couple of glasses of most wines are more than enough. It is a tribute to the winemaking skills of Stephanie Toole that it happened. This is an estate-grown, single-vineyard riesling from riesling heartland in Watervale, Clare Valley. Certified organic, it is a classic Clare riesling, aromatic with vibrant lemon and grapefruit pithiness, linear, slatey and with brilliant acid. It is also delicate and ethereal. No wonder it evaporated. Grab a case for Christmas drinking pleasure. I'll give it 96 points. $35. www.mounthorrocks.com.