I first came across Kevin Bell and Tricia Byrnes a decade and a half ago when they were trying to find a retail outlet in Sydney to sell their wines. I was blown away with the quality they were producing as part-timers (Kevin is a Supreme Court judge and his wife a lawyer), and was, fortunately, able to assist. Their wines have only improved since then, and the Hurley pinots are among the finest on the Mornington Peninsula. This is a few months down the track from release and looks spectacular, with everything you'd want in a high-quality pinot. It looks, to use a cliche, distinctly Burgundian, with a bright red fruit bouquet, and an impressive balance between fruit, savoury/sous bois notes and quality oak. Superb - and cellar worthy. I'm edging towards 97/100. $85. www.hurleyvineyard.com.au.