The Ten Minutes by Tractor range from the Mornington Peninsula always offers a choice of some of Australia's finest single-vineyard chardonnays; wines of style and substance that offer extreme drinking pleasure over both the short and medium term. The 2015 wines are no exception and while the Wallis vineyard wine is generally my favourite on this occasion it is pipped by the sublime Judd, a brilliantly poised wine with the flavours and complexity to match its composure. The Judd vines are now well over 20 years of age and delivering quality fruit. From a terrific vintage, this was hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed and naturally fermented in new and old French barrels. A style benchmark; but you shouldn't wait around too long before buying. $68. www.tenmimutesbytractor.com.au.