Party season is approaching; Christmas is not far away. That means I am going to be asked, repeatedly, to recommend an affordable sparkling wine that can do duty at work functions or family get-togethers. You might not have heard of the Yarran label but this bubbly from a family-owned and -operated winery at Yenda offers some affordable luxury here with citrusy, fresh and vibrant notes. It is made from 100% chardonnay grown in the Riverina region of New South Wales but picked early while it still had crunchy acid. Young and quite dry, this a real bargain that can be found online for $12 a bottle and would pair brilliantly with canapes or fresh oysters. Huon Hooke also liked it. $14. www.yarranwines.com.au.