The Grampians of Victoria are perhaps not the first place you would look for top-quality pinot noir but Montara has hit a home run with this new release single-vineyard wine made from vines planted over 40 years ago. Recent signing Simon Fennell, in his first run as chief winemaker, brings a wealth of experience, including from Best's Great Western, and the single vineyard range (which also includes a riesling and shiraz) is his baby, aimed at reflecting vineyard, soil, micro-climate and aspect. I liked this a lot, with its delicate perfume and clever balance between lightness and intensity. Around 50% of the fruit was whole bunch and spent two weeks on skins before being matured in second-use French barriques. It's all about the fruit - and it stars. $40. www.montarawines.com.au.