The more albarino I taste from Australia the more I am convinced it is the white wine variety of the future in warmer regions. The Spanish variety got off to a bad start in the local marketplace when it turned out that fruit that was planted as "albarino" was actually savagnin. Now albarino vines are starting to mature we are seeing impressive results, with Andrew Margan and his team in the Hunter Valley among those leading the way with the Galician grape variety. This is medium-bodied and flavoursome with some bright acid and spicy grapefruit tang on the palate. Serve chilled with seafood or Asian dishes. Yum! $30. www.margan.com.au.