My experience has always been that Muscadets, the thrilling white wines of the western Loire region outside Nantes in the far west of France, are best enjoyed in their youth. At three years of age this reserve release from Domaine de la Combe comprehensively disproves that theory. The wines from this domaine are wild fermented in stainless steel with minimal preservatives added. No malo. In addition to the a lively salinity and green apple and mineral characters, there is also bright acid and some interesting layers of texture from a year spent maturing on lees and a further year in bottle before release. Imported by Red + White and best enjoyed with crustaceans at La Cigale in Nantes. In Australia, maybe pair with fresh oysters or a Moreton Bay bug or two. $35. www.domaine-combe.com/
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