Yangarra Estate 2010 Viognier

McLaren Vale biodynamic producer Yangarra Estate is the Australian outpost of American wine conglomerate Jackson Family Wines. The wines produced from the former Norman's vineyard at Blewitt Springs are unashamedly Rhone in style, and this one of the most impressive Australian takes on the viognier grape that I have seen. This is a fresh but impressively restrained viognier, full of appeal but understated and without any of the canned apricot characters found in so many of its rather loud brethren. Twelve months in French oak and regular lees stirring have added interest to the creamy palate. $25.

Battle of Bosworth 2010 McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon

I opened a swag of red wines recently, and this was the one with a definite "wow!" factor. From one of the unsung heroes of McLaren Vale (and an organic producer to boot), this is a refined, medium-bodied wine, unmistakeably varietal and immediately inviting with dark blackcurrant, charry oak and hints of tobacco leaf harmoniously knitted together - and terrific tannin structure, too. A really delightful drink that carries its 14.5% alcohol effortlessly. Great now, and excellent value, too, but you'd want to put a few bottles down for the long haul. $25. 

Dog Point Vineyard 2011 Sauvignon Blanc

There are some Marlborough sauvignons blanc that are just too overt and outspoken, like a scantilly clad young thing leaving nothing to the imagination. Then there are superior offerings like this estate-grown offering. There are herbaceous notes on the nose, as you'd expect, but the palate offers so much more with bright, ripe citrus notes, minerality, crispness and concentration, along with restrained grassiness and hints of gunsmoke. Plenty of length; plenty of flavour but most of all, crunchy freshness, intensity and length. Very enjoyable with grilled flathead. $30. www.dogpoint.co.nz. 

Marchand & Burch 2009 Vosne-Romanée

Marchand & Burch is a vinous collaboration between the Burch family of Howard Park and MadFish fame and  renowned Burgundy winemaker Pascal Marchand, producing wines from both Australia and France. This is an outstanding blend of fruit from three different vineyards in the commune of Vosne-Romanée on the Cotes de Nuits, with the advantage over many Burgundies in that it comes under a screw cap, much reducing the chance of spoilage. This is a fragrant, articulate expression, discreet with spice and sous bois notes, a lovely blend of classy lifted dark fruit and earthiness. Absolutely top notch - and a perfect match for lamb en croute. $130. www.marchandburchwines.com.au.