I have an issue with wines under the Kooyong label. From founding winemaker Sandro Moselle to Glen Hayley and now Tim Perrin, the Gjergja family invariably produces outstanding Mornington Peninsula wines. It is often hard to know exactly which wine to review but this one stood out with its delightful poise and balance. Like all the Kooyong estate wines it is estate grown, made and bottled - and the grapes here come from a block of under a hectare of close-planted vines that produce exceptional fruit. This is black-fruited, medium-bodied, appealingly earthy and exceptionally drinkable. $85. www.portphillipestate.com.au/product/2024-nord-pinot-noir
