Clonakilla 2024 Shiraz Viognier

 

You'll need to get a wriggle on if you want to secure some bottles of the new release of this cult favourite - available from Thursday. A wine of impressive energy and flow, it is high on quality with deep, dark spice notes to the fore, but volumes are low after a difficult year marked by severe frosts. From Murrumbateman, outside Canberra, this cool-climate classic offers harmonious fruit/spice notes and fabulous length. "It is undoubtedly one of the great SV vintages for us, but one made in more limited quantities than usual," the Kirk family, which has been pioneering winemaking in the region since 1971, says. This is certainly worth a splurge - and a spell in the cellar for those who are so inclined. $130. https://clonakilla.com.au/

Kooyong 2025 Clonale Chardonnay

If you like your chardonnays big, oaky, aged, leesy and yeasty then please look elsewhere. If, however, your preference is for vibrant, fresh, pure young chardonnays in the Chablis mould then this will be right up your alley. Full of carefree exuberance, there is subtle, mainly older French oak laying down the background vibe, but this is all about a zingy citrus tang, hints of rockmelon and plenty of acidity and length. is a blend of Chardonnay from Tuerong and Balnarring vineyards on the Mornington Peninsula that would pair well with anything from a pork chop to a bowl of paella. A very good wine for $38. https://www.portphillipestate.com.au/

Mr Riggs 2021 The Chap

Everything about this wine says "premium" or "special occasion". Heavy bottle, classy packaging, special box. Ben Riggs describes his flagship red wine as the "creme de la creme" of his output, and it is easy to see why he is proud. This is blend of 55% shiraz from Riggs' own McLaren Vale vineyard and 45% cabernet sauvignon from a well-regarded vineyard in Coonawarra. The Chap is a serious fellow. Bold and and assertive but still blessed with impressive balance. Lashings of new oak on an opulent palate. Released at five years of age, it is dark and profound with the polished shiraz fruit an impressive foil for the structure of the cabernet. I paired this classic "claret" with a burger and Mediterranean vegetables, but it merits finer fare. $120. https://mrriggs.com.au/ 

 

Angullong 2023 Fossil Hill Montepulciano

 

Montepulciano is an indigenous Italian red grape planted throughout central and southern Italy. This well-priced new release is one of a trio of Italian varietals made by Jeff Byrne for Orange-based Angullong. The others are an equally impressive barbera, and a sangiovese. Montepulciano produces fruity, immediately enjoyable reds that are food friendly - and this one certainly ticks that box. It would pair well with anything from simples pizzas to pastas with a rich ragu. Think generous cherry/plum flavours and just a hint of mixed dried herbs adding a savoury note. Nice balance; soft tannins. Ready to enjoy right now. $30. https://www.angullong.com.au/    

Vasse Felix 2024 Chardonnay

 

World-class chardonnay from one of the premier producers in Margaret River for under $50? That's a huge win. There is plenty of palate complexity here; but also immediate accessibility - not an easy trick to pull off. This is a thoroughly modern chardonnay veers more to elegance than power but still has enough weight to satisfy with food. The palate offers a concerto of melon, stone fruit and spice, savoury/nutty elements and some zingy fresh minerality. Palate interest has been added by wild ferment and maturation in French oak barriques (30% new). This would be a great match for pork belly dishes, or a Portuguese roast chicken. Top notch. $46. https://www.vassefelix.com.au/

Ekin 2024 Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir

 

It is becoming increasingly difficult to find quality pinot noir for which you don't need to take out a mortgage. Make a note of this one: juicy, fresh and loveable pinot from the Adelaide Hills that won't cost an arm and a leg. It is floral and red fruited with some deli hints on the impressively complex palate. Ekin Wine Co, was only founded five years ago, but the fruit used here comes from 25-year-old vines. Ten months in mature oak barrels has added complexity without intruding on the vibrant joie de vivre in the fruit. Pair with Chinese roast duck or some pork belly. This is a serious bargain. $25. https://ekinwineco.com.au/  

Grosset 2025 Piccadilly Chardonnay

Jeff Grosset may be best known for his superb Clare Valley rieslings, but he is also very much at the top of his game with a brace of chardonnays from the Adelaide Hills: the Piccadilly and the new-release Lenswood. In the 2025 vintage the Piccadilly was my pick; impressively Burgundian with compelling youthful vivacity. A floral nose leads on to a classic cool-climate palate where citrus and stone fruit have combined harmoniously. There is length here, and a nifty combo of structure and immediate drinkability. Partial malo and quality French oak maturation for 10 months have added to the palate appeal. I'd pair this with roast pork and lashings of crackling. Only 500 cases were made so moving quickly may be advantageous. 96 points from me. $90. www.grosset.com.au.