Saturday, March 21, 2026

Angullong 2023 Fossil Hill Montepulciano

 

Montepulciano is an indigenous Italian red grape planted throughout central and southern Italy. This well-priced new release is one of a trio of Italian varietals made by Jeff Byrne for Orange-based Angullong. The others are an equally impressive barbera, and a sangiovese. Montepulciano produces fruity, immediately enjoyable reds that are food friendly - and this one certainly ticks that box. It would pair well with anything from simples pizzas to pastas with a rich ragu. Think generous cherry/plum flavours and just a hint of mixed dried herbs adding a savoury note. Nice balance; soft tannins. Ready to enjoy right now. $30. https://www.angullong.com.au/    

Saturday, March 14, 2026

Vasse Felix 2024 Chardonnay

 

World-class chardonnay from one of the premier producers in Margaret River for under $50? That's a huge win. There is plenty of palate complexity here; but also immediate accessibility - not an easy trick to pull off. This is a thoroughly modern chardonnay veers more to elegance than power but still has enough weight to satisfy with food. The palate offers a concerto of melon, stone fruit and spice, savoury/nutty elements and some zingy fresh minerality. Palate interest has been added by wild ferment and maturation in French oak barriques (30% new). This would be a great match for pork belly dishes, or a Portuguese roast chicken. Top notch. $46. https://www.vassefelix.com.au/

Saturday, March 7, 2026

Ekin 2024 Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir

 

It is becoming increasingly difficult to find quality pinot noir for which you don't need to take out a mortgage. Make a note of this one: juicy, fresh and loveable pinot from the Adelaide Hills that won't cost an arm and a leg. It is floral and red fruited with some deli hints on the impressively complex palate. Ekin Wine Co, was only founded five years ago, but the fruit used here comes from 25-year-old vines. Ten months in mature oak barrels has added complexity without intruding on the vibrant joie de vivre in the fruit. Pair with Chinese roast duck or some pork belly. This is a serious bargain. $25. https://ekinwineco.com.au/  

Saturday, February 28, 2026

Grosset 2025 Piccadilly Chardonnay

Jeff Grosset may be best known for his superb Clare Valley rieslings, but he is also very much at the top of his game with a brace of chardonnays from the Adelaide Hills: the Piccadilly and the new-release Lenswood. In the 2025 vintage the Piccadilly was my pick; impressively Burgundian with compelling youthful vivacity. A floral nose leads on to a classic cool-climate palate where citrus and stone fruit have combined harmoniously. There is length here, and a nifty combo of structure and immediate drinkability. Partial malo and quality French oak maturation for 10 months have added to the palate appeal. I'd pair this with roast pork and lashings of crackling. Only 500 cases were made so moving quickly may be advantageous. 96 points from me. $90. www.grosset.com.au.  

Saturday, February 21, 2026

Mumm Marlborough NV Brut Rosé

 


Champagne House GH Mumm - which dates back to 1827 - made a good choice when it selected talented and much-travelled Trina Smith to make its Terroirs sparkling wines across Australia and New Zealand. This pretty pink sparkler certainly impressed my tasting group this week with its vivaciousness; an ideal choice as an aperitif, or with finger food. Made from 100% pinot noir grapes from Marlborough, this is both floral and fruity, but finishes dry with intense, tight red berry/currant flavours to the fore, along with just a hint of shortbread biscuit. Plenty of length here, and plenty of fun. $45. 

Saturday, February 14, 2026

First Ridge 2025 Uova Bella Fiano Vermentino























Having tried impressive First Ridge 2025 fiano and vermentino releases just a few weeks ago, I was surprised to see this blend of the two varieties arrive from the same Mudgee winery. Having now tasted the blend I understand the reasoning. While the two single variety wines were fresh and crisp - fun wines for summer - this marriage of Sicilian and Sardinian flavours was fermented in an imported terracotta egg - a modern take on ancient amphorae. That has resulted in a blend that is more than the sum of its two parts; altogether more structural and potentially longer lived. The lees contact adds complexity without any oak involvement. The blend is 60% fiano and 40% vermentino. Impressively different. $45. www.firstridge.com.au.

Saturday, February 7, 2026

Curly Flat 2024 Pinot Noir

Curly Flat is a Macedon Ranges producer of stellar pinot noirs and chardonnays. The new release of their estate pinot noir lives up to expectations with a wine of power and balance that is grown, vinified and bottle on site outside the hamlet of Lancefield. So a family-owned producer with total control. While this producer's Williams Crossing 2024 is designed for casual sipping, this one is stylish and dinner party worthy; perhaps matched with roasted quail or Peking duck. A tip. Let this one breathe for a few minutes after opening to enjoy it at its best. $72. https://curlyflat.com/