Grosset 2025 Piccadilly Chardonnay

Jeff Grosset may be best known for his superb Clare Valley rieslings, but he is also very much at the top of his game with a brace of chardonnays from the Adelaide Hills: the Piccadilly and the new-release Lenswood. In the 2025 vintage the Piccadilly was my pick; impressively Burgundian with compelling youthful vivacity. A floral nose leads on to a classic cool-climate palate where citrus and stone fruit have combined harmoniously. There is length here, and a nifty combo of structure and immediate drinkability. Partial malo and quality French oak maturation for 10 months have added to the palate appeal. I'd pair this with roast pork and lashings of crackling. Only 500 cases were made so moving quickly may be advantageous. 96 points from me. $90. www.grosset.com.au.  

Oakridge 864 2023 Drive Block Funder & Diamond Chardonnay

 

The 864 collection represents the very best of Oakridge's Yarra Valley portfolio, which is legendary for its almost obscene consistency of quality. The name 864 pays homage to the winery's Coldstream street address and the 2023 vintage marks the 12th release of this single-block chardonnay - a wine that many would pick as fine Burgundy when tasted blind. It is a vinous superstar - as its sibling the Henk Aquaduct Block. The grapes are hand harvested, whole-bunch pressed to large format French oak (20% new), wild-yeast fermented, matured for 10 months on lees then transferred to tank for an additional six months on lees prior to bottling. The end result: stunningly precise, pure and citrus-guided chardonnay with length, elegance, linearity and immediate appeal. Super stuff. $100. www.oakridgewines.com.au.

De Bortoli 2023 The Estate Vineyard Chardonnay

 

There is a gradual passing of the baton at De Bortoli Yarra Valley with Kate Webber, daughter of winemaker Steve Webber and Leanne de Bortoli, the winemaker of this precise and pristine chardonnay. The Estate Vineyard released are hand-crafted wines that aim to reflect the characters of the family vineyards - and this is outstanding with nectarine and grapefruit notes to the fore. A cool 2023 vintage has resulted in bright acidity, pure fruit flavours and impressive length. I could drink bucketloads of this, paired with old school roast pork, crackling and all the trimmings; or maybe some pan-fried fish. Very good buying for $25. https://www.debortoli.com.au/

Wynns 2024 Black Label Messenger Chardonnay

This a very impressive addition to the Wynnsday collection of wines released earlier this week by winemaker Sue Hodder and her team at Wynns Coonawarra Estate. It is a composed, very varietal cooler-climate chardonnay that also offers formidable value. The Messenger Vineyard has 32-year-old chardonnay vines, which produced stellar fruit in 2024. This is a very classy wine with plenty of flavour and a brisk acid finish. Hand-picking, whole-bunch pressing, barrel aging, and malolactic fermentation all play their role in a release that is complete and very varietal with stone fruit flavours, youthful enthusiasm and waves of texture producing a very smooth customer indeed. $45. https://www.wynns.com.au/