Vermentino, fiano, arneis; the wine world is full of aromatic Italian white varieties that were virtually unknown a decade ago, but all three look to hold immense promise in Australia. This is the first arneis release from Fowles Wines in Victoria's Strathbogie Ranges; and it is an offering for those who like their whites with plenty of fruity punch. There's a tropical fruit salad nose with the tropical theme leading on to a palate where it is allied to a strong citrus backbone. This is long, lively and fresh and a very good introduction to a variety that originates in Piedmont and is known for producing floral and crisp wines; although the style can also be rich and textural. $22. www.fowleswines.com.