Forget any bias you may have against wines from the 2011 vintage; this is an absolutely terrific Yarra Valley chardonnay that sits comfortably midway on the style spectrum and offers superb drinking. Made from hand-picked fruit grown on the Hounsell family's estate at Dixons Creek and vinified at Oakridge by chardonnay maestro David Bicknell this underwent natural yeast ferment and no malo and spent 10 months in larger format French oak, including 40% new barrels. There is some exciting classic stone fruit character here, but also some subtle nuttiness and palate complexity. Classically appealing with an Errol Flynn swagger. $35-40. www.toolangi.com.