A quietly impressive Barossa shiraz from former Penfolds chief winemaker John Duval, a fourth generation vigneron now making wines under his own label. Duval no longer has the promotional firepower he used to have in his three decades at Penfolds, but his wines are always stylish and good value. Made from old, low-yielding vines in Marananga, Eden Valley, Ebenezer and Krondorf, this stands out for its classic full-bodied depth of flavour and balance, with almost 18 months in French oak acting as counterpoint to the high-quality fruit and the Eden Valley component adding elegance. A wine that's drinking well now but has the poise and structure to cellar well for 15 years of more. $50. www.johnduvalwines.com.