For a decade or more Sandro Mosele has quietly been crafting some of Australia's finest chardonnays for Kooyong on the Mornington Peninsula. A few weeks ago Kooyong put out a press release saying Mosele had left to "pursue other interests". All very mysterious. But Kooyong still has Mosele's wines from 2013 and 2014 to come. This new release is, like all Kooyong wines, estate grown, vinified and bottled. And it's a beauty. Wild yeast ferment has added layers of interest to the flinty minerality. Stone fruit and citrus flavours marry happily with just a smidgen of new oak and the end result is as stylish as a Paris catwalk model. $60. www.kooyongwines.com.au.