I am an unashamed admirer of the success that Elias Jreissati, winemaker Paul Bridgeman and the team at Levantine Hill have enjoyed in such a short period of time. They hit the ground running in a bid to make benchmark wines and this, the inaugural release of the single-site Colleen's Paddock Pinot Noir, is a definite sign they are on the right track. It is, quite simply, a delicious cool-climate Yarra Valley pinot noir. Named after Jreissati's wife, it is an almost impossibly silky, superbly savoury pinot that just oozes class. There is a lot going on here, but it also has immediate drinkability. Try a bottle to mark a special occasion. $200. www.levantinehill.com.au.